We’re again at it with TAG Heuer
Our new collaboration with the Swiss model revives an all-time basic: Jack Heuer’s groundbreaking Nineteen Sixties single sub-dial chronograph with date, the second-generation Carrera Dato ref. 3147N. A restricted version of 250 watches, the TAG Heuer Carrera Dato Limited Edition for HODINKEE encompasses a reworked model of the model’s premium in-house computerized Calibre Heuer 02 positioned contained in the vintage-inspired 39mm “glassbox” case. This is why we like it.

Jack Heuer was a horological hitmaker; a bootstrapper who guided his household agency to profitability after taking up in 1962, on the spry age of 30. The designs produced by Heuer throughout his first decade main the model at the moment are thought of among the biggest triumphs in chronograph historical past. And if there’s one assortment that greatest exemplifies Heuer’s strategy to watchmaking, it is the Carrera chronograph.

First launched in 1963, the Carrera served because the constructing block for a brand new era of Heuer wristwatches. Its fast success granted the corporate the monetary footing for additional experiments in design and engineering, and in 1965, Heuer adopted with the inaugural Carrera with a date operate. That watch was the ref. 3147; not solely was it the primary Carrera with a calendar complication, however it was additionally one of many first chronograph wristwatches to characteristic the now-standard rotating date wheel show.

Nicknamed the “Dato 45” for its mixture of an elapsed 45-minute register at three o’clock and a date show, this new-age chronograph featured the identical clear and compact case profile of the standard Carrera with a back-to-basics dial. You would possibly recall this is not the primary time we have drawn from the unique Dato 45 for a collaborative restricted version with TAG Heuer: The 2017 Carrera Skipper Limited Edition for HODINKEE featured a virtually similar single sub-register orientation. In working with our colleagues at TAG Heuer once more, we needed to convey again the watch that helped encourage one in every of our favourite initiatives ever, in as genuine a way as attainable.

Fifty-six years later, we predict the Dato’s rakish ’60s aesthetic stays simply as charming as ever. All the time and ceaselessly an train of intelligibility in design, the brand new Carrera Dato options just a few minor updates to reinforce that impact; we did not merely wish to reproduce the unique watch with TAG Heuer, but additionally to maneuver it ahead.

Classic chronographs from the Nineteen Sixties have lengthy been a focal point for in-the-know watch fanatics, and among the most fascinating are black-dialed examples from Heuer. An inky portal into the collector’s world, these fashions are sometimes distinguished by an N – for noir – on the finish of their reference numbers and share a daring, saturated aesthetic that stands out towards the extra conservative look of chronographs with silver and white dials.

Classic chronographs from the Nineteen Sixties have lengthy been a focal point for in-the-know watch fanatics, and among the most fascinating are black-dialed examples from Heuer. An inky portal into the collector’s world, these fashions are sometimes distinguished by an N – for noir – on the finish of their reference numbers and share a daring, saturated aesthetic that stands out towards the extra conservative look of chronographs with silver and white dials.

You will discover completely no fauxtina on the brand new Carrera Dato’s dial. Its shiny black tone now purposefully extends out to the chapter ring, enveloping your entire dial in a constant, compelling darkness.

Classic Heuer emblem

Pump pushers

Date window at 9 o’clock

Matte black dial

30 minute register at 3 o’clock

Heuer-signed crown

39mm “glassbox” case

Utilized hour markers

Yup – the Carrera Dato is the uncommon classic watch the place collectors welcome the once-a-day blink of a date window with open arms. We might even go as far as to argue that the second-generation 3147N design seen right here represents the ne plus extremely of difficult minimalism in watchmaking. When folks say classic watches simply look higher than their trendy counterparts, that is the right instance of why.

Give it some thought this fashion: If a traditional chronograph is attempting to pitch you on the novelty of measuring elapsed time, the Carrera Dato is supposed to help your day-to-day life in probably the most sensible methods attainable. Are you extra more likely to time one thing that is beneath half-hour – like, say, grilling a steak – or are you going to trace a complete 12-hour expertise?

A catalyst for a brand new era of in-house watchmaking at TAG Heuer, the Calibre Heuer 02 is the model’s latest-and-greatest chronograph achievement. It was developed within the 2010s from the ground-up by TAG Heuer, whose goal was to mix all of the technical specs one would possibly want in a Twenty first-century chronograph in a single flagship motion.

To recreate the distinctive dial format of the unique Dato, TAG Heuer eliminated the Calibre Heuer 02’s typical six and nine-o’clock sub-dials and developed a model new date disc with a contemporary font. It in any other case begins with a completely built-in design that runs in 33 jewels, at a beat fee of 28,800 vph, with a powerful energy reserve of as much as 80 hours, all saved in a single barrel. The Calibre Heuer 02 makes use of each a column-wheel and a vertical-clutch mechanism, a premium mixture present in a lot of right now’s prime chronographs. Seen by a sapphire crystal exhibition caseback, the Calibre Heuer 02’s end is easy however engaging, with crisp côtes de Genève throughout the mainplate and a blackened and open-worked rotor that commemorates the model’s latest one hundred and sixtieth anniversary.

Our newest collaboration with TAG Heuer formally brings a favourite Nineteen Sixties chronograph again to life, highlighting the corporate’s wealthy historical past and full vary of latest talents within the course of. A restricted version of 250 numbered items priced at $7,250 every, the TAG Heuer Carrera Dato Limited Edition comes paired with a black alligator leather-based strap that includes a Heuer-signed deployant clasp. Half of the 250-piece run can be found right now with complimentary, worldwide supply from the HODINKEE Store, and the remaining will probably be out there at TAG Heuer model boutiques in america and Japan.

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